Abseiler Qualification

 

            This has been copied (with some added notes) from the Organisation and Information Handbook, 10th Edition, 1997.  [GWSR notes have been added by Rick Jamieson in these kind of brackets]

 

Abseiler Qualification:

1.1.1        General

(a)     This is a prerequisite standard for all other [Rock] qualifications - for example, canyoning, caving, rockclimbing.

(b)     Participation in the Abseiler Level of instruction must be under the direct supervision of an Instructor who shall ensure that all theoretical knowledge has been understood by the participant prior to any activity at or near the rock face being effected.  [In GWSR we take “Instructor” to mean an Abseil Instructor.  But we don’t worry much about this requirement – it is clearly impracticable to carry out]

1.1.2        Requirements

(a)    Know and understand the basic precautions applicable to rock-related activities.

[In GWSR we take this to mean:

(i)                  Always wear an approved safety helmet to minimize head injuries.

(ii)                Never stand near cliff edges unless belayed on.  One and a half body-lengths will be taken as the minimum safe distance.

(iii)               Before you start to abseil, check the anchor point (tree etc) and set-up (how the rope is tied on).

(iv)              Before you start, get someone to check your harness – for example, buckles etc.

(v)                Check that the abseil device (figure 8, rack etc) is attached to the rope in the correct manner.  In GWSR a Leader must carry out this check.

(vi)              Check that you do not have any loose clothing or hair etc. that can get caught in the abseil device.

(vii)             Check the rope does not have weak points.  Use carpets to protect the rope at the top.

(viii)           Don’t stand on ropes, tapes or equipment – this gets sand in, and creates wear.  Do not throw or drop equipment.

(ix)              After abseiling, each person will belay the next person down.  Belaying will involve full concentration by the belayer.

(x)                Do not dislodge rocks.  Watch your feet when starting so as not to dislodge rocks.  If a rock is dislodged, call “BELOW”.

(xi)              Abseil slowly.  Fast abseiling can melt nylon ropes and cause rope burn.

(xii)             Always carry two prussik slings and a spare karabiner, for self-rescue.]

(b)    Be fully conversant with the standard communication terms and procedures.  [In GWSR the standard calls are “Abseiling”, “On Belay” “Off Rope” and “O.K.” (in response to “Off Rope”).  The extra calls “On Rope”, “Safe” and “Off Belay” may be used by people tied to the past]

(c)    Tie without error and demonstrate the use of the following knots:

·        Figure Eight Loop

·        Double Fisherman’s

·        Prussik

·        Tape

·        Alpine Butterfly

Plus any other knots specified by the Branch Activity Committee (Rock) from time to time.  [In GWSR we also do Threaded Figure Eight (Figure Eight around a tree)]

 

1.1.3        Know how to take care of equipment used in rock-related activities.  Understand the inherent damage caused to synthetic rope by fast abseiling, lack of care on rocks and prolonged exposure to strong sunlight, chemicals etc.  Demonstrate how to examine a rope for damage and how to coil it.

1.1.4        Have basic knowledge of first aid for concussion, fractures, sprains, shock, exposure and rope burns.  [In GWSR we have removed this requirement – firstly because first aid standards are much better these days and secondly because we consider that in first aid “a little knowledge can be a dangerous thing” – in other words we don’t like to teach a “basic knowledge” of first aid which can lead to inexperienced people thinking they know everything]

1.1.5        Show application of the Australian Scout Environment Charter in the case of all sites where activities are conducted.  [In practice this means that the Instructor should supply a plastic bag and make sure the site is left at least as clean as when the group arrived]

1.1.6        Demonstrate how to set up an abseil rope and explain the necessary precautions taken in doing so.  Know the dangers inherent in using trees and vegetation as anchor and belay points.  [I think this means that trees that are too little may fail as anchors]

1.1.7        Demonstrate how to abseil by three methods.  [This means you can do the whole course just using (say) figure eight, but you need to do at least one abseil each with two different devices – for example, rack or stitch-plate or harpoon or top-cat or crossed-crabs or piton-bar etc.]

1.1.8        Be able to establish a safe belay and be able to competently belay an abseiler.  [This means bottom belay.  A “safe” bottom belay means you are not in the way of rocks falling from above]

1.1.9        Have logged at least 20 abseils totalling a minimum of 400 metres under varying conditions.  [“Varying conditions” means not all on the one abseil]

1.1.10    Demonstrate ability to prussik.

 

[In GWSR we also do the following:-

(i)                  Prussik “up and down” and also “up and over” a cliff.

(ii)                Climb a caving ladder.

(iii)               Top belay (belay from the top using a stitch plate)

(iv)              Self-belay (French Prussik or similar)

(v)                Self-rescue (abseil over a knot using prussik slings)

In addition some Instructors include a Canyon Anchor (abseil from two 9 mm ropes around a tree) and sometimes an abseil with the Munter hitch.